From Food Trucks to Haute Cuisine
By no means am I a culinary expert. I have nowhere near the training or experience to consider myself a food or restaurant critic. But how can one go to Paris and not talk about food, right? In the past, with the exception of “take away” foods such as falafels, quiches, or sandwiches, I have mainly focused on having meals at home, prepared from local ingredients I would find at the neighborhood marchés or outdoor food markets. But since much of this summer’s travels center around the food and wine regions of France, I thought why not continue this culinary journey in Paris? Here are some of the places that I went to and really enjoyed…
Food trucks have become huge in Paris and are widely popular with both locals and visitors. Cantine California is one of them and was started in 2012 by an American from San Diego. They were the first one on the scene to start cooking up burgers, tacos, and homemade desserts on the streets of Paris. I like this one because first the food is great! I’ve had the Obama Burger and the Half Moon Bay BBQ and both served with the freshly cut fries were really good. But the other reason is that their foods are prepared from scratch with fresh organic ingredients supplied from local French farmers. Check the website for schedules and locations.
Speaking of street foods, don’t miss L’as du Falafel at 34 Rue des Rosiers in the Marais neighborhood. The food is cheap and really tasty. Then for dessert, a glace or gelato from Amorino or Berthillon is perfect!
Les Marchés are by far the best place to pick up the freshest ingredients for a dinner à la maison (at home). But there are also already prepared foods that you can have to create a nice picnic lunch or to take home for a meal later. This market option is especially nice if you’re renting an apartment, although you can do the same if you’re staying at a hotel. It is less costly than going out to a restaurant everyday and as a bonus, you get to personally meet the merchants and oftentimes the farmers themselves. Great way to feel like a temporary local!
A visit to the local market makes for great picnic lunches or lovely meals at home!
Crêperie Saint Germain- 33 Rue Saint-André des Arts 75006, Paris
You’ll find crêpe stands all over Paris. But every now and then it’s nice to have a sit-down crêpe dinner too. Most people know of the sweet varieties such as crêpes with Nutella, honey, confiture (jelly) or with Grand Marnier. But they can also be prepared with meats, cheeses, and vegetables.
L’Avant Comptoir-3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris
L’Avant Comptoir is a French tapas restaurant and wine bar by legendary bistro chef, Yves Camdeborde, who also runs the famous Parisian bistro, Le Comptoir du Relais just next door. The place is standing room only where people eat at the counter or wherever they can find a space. The menus hanging from the walls and people helping to pass the plates coming from the counter make for a convivial atmosphere!
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte– 20 Rue Saint-Benoît, 75006 Paris (also a location at 15 Rue Marbeuf, 75008)
It can’t get anymore Parisian than this. A typical bistro, this place has no menus to peruse and order from. You take a seat and after placing your cuisson order (to what degree you like your steak prepared), they just start bringing out the food, which is all about steak & frites, and it is good! The steak sauce is so delicious and they serve a lot of food, more like American size portions. There are no reservations so it is first-come, first-serve. I like to go for lunch because look at the line for dinner!
Chez Gladines– 44 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 (also with locations in the 1st, 11th, 13th, and 17th arrondissements)
I was first introduced to Chez Gladines by Pierre, my landlord from last year, and since then I have been a fan. This bistro specializes in dishes of Southwestern France. Prices are reasonable, especially by Paris’ standards, and as you will tell with all the locals who frequent this establishment, the food is great. Nice size portions here too!
La Source– 49 Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg, 75007 Paris
Another really nice bistro that serves a fantastic Confit du Canard (duck prepared in its own fat) is La Source. It’s just minutes from Rue Cler in the 7th Arrondissement and another spot where you’ll find mostly locals.
Eggs & Co. – 11 Rue Bernard Palissy, 75006 Paris
Have you ever heard of a restaurant that specializes only in egg dishes? My friend Laura and her husband told me about Eggs & Co after they had gone there, since it was just feet away from their Saint Germain des Prés apartment. It sounded so unique and interesting that the very next day I was there. On the menu, there are of course a variety of omelet and scrambled egg dishes to choose from. But to add even more delicious variety, there are also a number of egg cocotte (casserole) plates as well as Eggs Benedict. The specialty French cheeses, meats, and creams make these creations especially appetizing (and filling), and when served with wine….Oh-la-la!
La Grande Épicerie (at Le Bon Marché)- 38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
For years I’ve been frequenting La Grande Épicerie, the luxury food hall just across from the landmark department store, Le Bon Marché, particularly because of its amazing wine department. But it wasn’t until friends who came for a visit this summer went there for a late lunch that I learned about their Truffle Bar. The menu consists of small dishes prepared with truffles with the cooks working just in front of you at the counter. There are salads, cheese plates, pasta, and risotto. I had the truffle ravioli and it was divine!
Ladurée– 16-18 Rue Royale 75008, Paris (also at 75 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008)
I like to go here for Champagne and Macarons while enjoying the beautiful Napoleon III interiors. The location on Rue Royale is also the very first tea salon. Their hot chocolate is quite good too!
Speaking of hot chocolate, I know one would at first wonder, “what in the world could be so exciting about hot cocoa?” Oh no…this is very special. The BEST hot chocolates I’ve ever had in my entire life are the Chocolat Chaud à l’Ancienne at Angelina’s and the Chocolat Spécial at Café de Flore. I don’t know what kind of chocolates they use or what magic they use while mixing ingredients. But it is so good!!! It’s hard to describe in words. You just have to come and try for yourself!
Angelina’s Paris– 226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
Café de Flore– 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006
Café Le Procope– 13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, 75006
In keeping with the theme of cafés and tea salons, while I can’t really speak on the dinner menu here, I do enjoy Café Procope, first for the beautiful and elegant decor. It is gorgeous! Also, it is the oldest café in Paris, dating back to 1686 and so has historical significance. Past visitors included Ben Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, Rousseau and even Napoleon! Café Procope is perfect for an afternoon or evening cocktail or a light lunch. But prepared to spend some serious euros €€€ !
Okay, so back to food…
Brasserie Lipp- 51 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
In the same arrondissement or neighborhood is Brasserie Lipp, another historic restaurant in Saint Germain des Prés. I’m guessing most serious food writers would probably not include this place in their guide books or articles, probably because it is very touristy. But I wanted to include it because I like the belle époque interiors as well as its historical significance. It is world famous for having been frequented by many renowned writers, philosophers, politicians, as well as celebrities. The Brasserie specializes in Alsatian dishes and thanks to my friend, Chef Andrew in Atlanta, I was turned on to their Choucroute Garnie which is really tasty!
Au Pied de Fouet– 3 Rue Saint-Benoît, 75006 (another location at 45 Rue de Babylone in the 7th arrondissement)
This place is a tiny hole-in-the-wall establishment that gives you the true Parisian style bistro experience. On the menu you’ll find classics such as steak tartare, confit du canard, and daily specials such as rabbit prepared in sauce and served with mashed potatoes. The dessert menu is fantastic too!
Pizza Chic- 13 Rue de Mézières, 75006 Paris
This is by far the best pizza I have ever had in Paris! I knew it was a good sign when I walked in and noticed that not only the staff all spoke in Italian, but so did the clientele. The menu is all pizza and includes both white sauces as well as tomato based sauces, with very tasty Italian cheeses, meats, and seasonal vegetables.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon- 5 Rue Montalembert, 75007
I’ve always wanted to try haute cuisine in Paris and this summer I was finally able to do so. Thanks to Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations show on the Travel Channel, I learned about L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a Michelin star fine dining establishment located in the 7th arrondissement. Joël Robuchon is a world renown celebrity chef with fine restaurants in London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Monaco, Vegas, and several other major cities. The Atelier here in Saint Germain des Prés offers the same haute cuisine but in a more casual atmosphere. You sit at the counter and get to watch the chefs as they prepare the food in the open kitchen. Here is a place that you really want to save your euros before making a reservation!
For more elegance…
Le Mini Palais– 3 Avenue Winston Churchill, 75008 Paris
To me this is one of the grandest terraces in all of Paris. It’s great during the summer where you can sit outside and look just across the street at the beautiful Petit Palais. The menu looks pricey, however the dessert and wine lists are doable.
Le 68- 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008
This is another one of my favorites, just because it is so unique. Le 68 is where gastronomy meets perfume. Here Guy Martin, chef etoilé (star chef) collaborates with business partner, Thierry Wasseur, the “nose” to present a surprising and exciting menu based on the Guerlain fragrances. As a bonus, the gorgeous pastries are named after perfumes created by the famous French brand, such as Guerlain’s “La Petite Robe Noire” (Little Back Dress).
