My neighborhood in the 9th Arrondissement
Home for me when I go to Paris is usually on the Left Bank, in a snazzy and highly popular neighborhood called Saint Germain des Prés. But I remember years ago, during a conversation about travel to Paris with my friend Chef Andrew in Atlanta, a Right Bank person, he insisted that I should go and stay across the river at least once. Then last spring, a friend of mine shared a New York Times article about a solo traveler in Paris exploring off-the-beaten paths of the 9th Arrondissement, also located in the Right Bank. These things inspired me to not only tour this side of Paris but to make it my home for this summer.
Just to give you a visual…below is a picture of the River Seine. What you see left of the river (north of the river), is considered the Right bank known in French as Rive Droite. Historically, this was the home of aristocrats and the bourgeoisie people of Paris. Here is where you’ll find the wider boulevards, les grands magasins or grand department stores, Napoleon’s famous Arc de Triomphe, the luxurious tea salons such as Angelina’s and the original La Durée, the Opera and ballet theatre, and of course palaces including the Louvre and mansions called hôtels particuliers. On the other hand, Rive Gauche or Left Bank, situated on the right side (south side of the Seine river), was known as the area of bohemians where famous artists, writers, painters, poets, jazz musicians used to live and work because it was more affordable. Nowadays every area in Paris is chic and expensive. But if you pay close attention, you’ll still see the different “personalities” of the locations.
So here I am, in the 9th, in the neighborhood near Saint Georges and l’Opera/ Grands Boulevards. Folies Bergere, the theatre where Josephine Baker used to perform in the 20’s and 30’s is around the corner. Next door is a theatre with some really interesting performances going on right now that I hope to see before I leave. Of course bakeries, cheese shops, wine bars, cafés, foie gras boutiques and organic markets line the streets and are just steps away. At first I was a little anxious about the move because in Saint Germain des Prés I know where everything is and it’s familiar. But I have to say I am enjoying this neighborhood. It is quieter and is nice not to have to push your way through crowds just to get to the bakery!
Folies Bergère is Josephine Baker’s old stomping grounds. This theatre is running performances til this day…
I thought this was funny…in the U.S. what we’re calling the French manicure, they call here the American manicure! As the story goes, it was the Hollywood celebs who used to refer to the chic nail design as “French”, although til this day I have yet to see a French woman wearing it. But because it was American celebrities who wore the style, the French then started calling it American 🙂
Doesn’t this remind you of the U.S. Social security card? Lol!
Wine and desserts since the 1700s!
