L’Alternative Urbaine- Alternative Walks in Paris
What I love about Alliance Française, besides learning the French language and meeting some great friends, is its emphasis on culture and current events of France and Francophone countries. It was my teacher Véronique, who shared with us one day an article on a unique twist of Paris’ walking tours called l’Alternative Urbaine. The concept is a leisurely walk or promenade throughout neighborhoods around Paris that are often overlooked by visitors. These are the neighborhoods of the “real” Paris as many of the locals say, where most Parisians live because the areas of central Paris which happen to be the tourist zones are so incredibly expensive that the average person is not able to afford to live there. Therefore, most Parisians live a little further away in the arrondissements 10-20 (arrondissements numbers 1 to 9 are the city centre and closer to the major sites and landmarks).
Selma, who is the creator of the group first learned of this idea during a trip to Brazil and brought the concept to Paris. L’Alternative Urbaine walking tours are offered by volunteers and persons who may be unemployed and use the time they have to share their passion and knowledge of the neighborhood where they live with visitors. Only thing is the tours are done in French. However sometimes there are volunteers to offer translation in English. Donations are encouraged but have no set rate-you give whatever you can. For this particular balade or walking tour, we visited the 20th Arrondissement with Anna who has lived here for over 40 years.
The 20th was historically considered la campagne or the countryside and was at one time not part of Paris proper at all. Parisians used to come here to enjoy the peace and quiet on the hillside. Here they had vineyards, gardens, parks…a change of pace from the hustle and bustle of the city centre and also the high taxes! While many of the cozy passageways have been torn down and replaced with apartments, commercial spaces and rent controlled housing called HLM (Habitation à loyer modéré), you can still get a sense of its authenticity compared to the mainstream tourist driven districts. Today the 20th district, known for the famous Père Lachaise cemetery, burial site of numerous celebs and also being the birthplace and home of singer Edith Piaf, is one of Paris’ highly sought after quartiers bobo or bohemian districts.
Volunteer (right) translating into English for this young visitor from Singapore. As a side-note, with the exception of the quick snack such as baguette or crêpe, unlike in the U.S. it is not common to see locals eating or drinking in the streets. But this San Francisco Bay Area girl holds onto the American tradition with her to-go coffee!
Courtyards and mini jardins (gardens) shared and maintained by the residents
Grape vines still exist from vineyards years ago
We stop at a musician’s shop where he shows us instruments made from everyday household objects
Unique and interesting architecture
Street art by local artists
The bains douches or public bath houses where homeless can go to shower and use restrooms. Across the street is the “hotel” which in fact are not hotels as in traveler accommodations, but rather temporary housing for the homeless.
More fun photos…
Ramadan is over today…yay!
