Paris for the Return Visitor
So you’ve been to Paris before and have visited already the famous landmarks. You’ve done the hop-on, hop-off tours, walked along Champs-Élysées and completed the standard sightseeing checklists designed for tourists. Maybe you’re planning a return visit and would like to see this amazing city from a different lens? Well here are some things that I like to do to experience Paris a little more like a local.
The first thing I do is choose a neighborhood where I want to stay. In Paris, neighborhoods or districts are called arrondissements, and the lower the number (there are 20 altogether), the closer you are to the city centre and main attractions. Insider secret: the last two digits of the zip code, like a hotel address for example, tell you the arrondissement you’re in (e.g. 75001= 1st, 75002= 2nd, 75014= 14th, etc). All neighborhoods near the centre are nice. You simply can’t go wrong. But my personal top two are the 6th also known as Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the 4th which is Le Marais. I book my place of stay at least two to three months in advance. Of course you don’t have to do it that early. But keep in mind that Paris is one of the most visited cities worldwide, and the longer you wait, the smaller the pickings as places tend to get booked pretty early. My go-to websites for bookings are VRBO and Airbnb as I prefer to rent an apartment. Paris Attitude is another site that I hear is good. I find that being in a residential neighborhood offers the most authentic experience. I would say for those who prefer hotels, at least find a boutique neighborhood hotel, rather than the larger chain hotels that feel touristy and commercial.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés apartment
Marais apartment
So for this trip I ended up staying in two different places because I had left Paris for two weeks to go to Bordeaux and the Dordogne region. On the return visit, I stayed here. This Marais home had two levels with a bathroom on each floor, a rare occurrence for most rentals in Paris. The home also had two outdoor spaces, an upstairs balcony attached to the bedroom and outdoor patio on the ground floor. Plus the location was ideal as it was in between the Place des Vosges and Bastille. It was perfect!
Place des Vosges in the Marais neighborhood
Opera Bastille just steps from my Marais home
Port (Bassin) de l’Arsenal- Bastille
I’ve watched every episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations that used to come on the Travel Channel. On one of his Paris episodes he taught me this. When you first arrive to Paris, don’t hit the ground running. Instead, take a breath and relax. I learned from him to find a neighborhood cafe, have a Parisian breakfast such as “un café crème” (coffee and cream), a tartine (toasted baguette and butter) and jus d’orange (orange juice). I love doing it this way as this gives me a chance to get reacquainted with Paris and take it all in.
How I like to spend my time in Paris…
So I’m listing the Paris 10K first because this was by far one of the most memorable experiences. It was my first race in Paris and it was the best! Imagine some of the most famous streets in the world being closed off for a huge citywide event that you get to be part of. Amazing!! If you’ve ever thought about completing a 10K, this is definitely the one. With the exception of elite or advanced runners, most participants were not worried about time, as people were stopping to take photos of all the beautiful monuments and selfies of course!
Post race food trucks and festivities…
Paris has tons of concerts all throughout the city and pretty much on everyday of the week. One of my favorites is the lunchtime classical music series held at the Petit Palais auditorium, near the Champs-Élysées across the street from Le Grand Palais. There are also concerts held in the evening. Click to find the schedule here. Petit Palais- Avenue Winston Churchill, 75008 Paris
Radio France was shown to me by my Parisian friend, Francesco, well…actually he’s from Italy but has lived in Paris for years. Radio France is the headquarters for all radio programming throughout the entire country. Not only do they host excellent concerts, the acousitics here are some of the best I’ve ever heard anywhere. The one downside for non-French speakers is that the website is only en français.Then again, that’s what Google Translate is for! Click here for the scheduled programs. Les concerts jazz (the jazz concerts) are especially nice to attend. Radio France- 16 avenue du Président Kennedy – 75016 Paris
Meet Me Out is a website similar to MeetUP and lists local events with many of them being free to attend, although you do have to first register on their page. This was an after work garden party sponsored by BCBG at the Quai d’Austerlitz, just a few metro stops from the Latin Quarter.
InterNations is another resource that I like to use to find out the latest happenings in the community. InterNations is global, with chapters all over the US, Europe, South America, etc. You do have to be a member; however, you don’t have to be a paying member. Since I attend a number of their events in Atlanta, I thought to check out their events page for Paris and that’s how I came across this private house concert. On this evening was a performance by a well known local singer of Brazilian and Latin Jazz. Amazing!!
I’m obsessed with the Paris jazz scene! There are so many venues to choose from and there is something every night of the week and all different styles of jazz. Paris Jazz Club is a one-stop-shop for all things jazz in Paris. Some of my favorite places to go are Sunset/Sunside (Rue des Lombards), Duc des Lombards (Rue des Lombards), Le Caveau des Oubliettes (Latin Quarter), 38 Riv (Rivoli), and Café Laurent at the Hotel d’Aubusson (Saint Germain des Prés).
Jim Haynes Dinners to me are a must-do when in Paris, at least once. I’ve been going since 2012 and have a great time every time, and I meet the most interesting people like Edith de Bellville. Jim Haynes is an American expat writer originally from Louisiana and has attended school in Atlanta. He started hosting Sunday dinners at his home 40 years ago and it has been going on ever since!
Hôtel de la Païva (“Mansion of La Païva”) is a townhouse that was built for Madame (some say former prostitute) Esther Lachmann, better known as La Païva. She was born in modest circumstances in the Moscow ghetto, to Polish parents. By successive marriages she became high society in Paris and was known all over for her dinner parties and lavish feasts at this mansion. It is now the Travellers’ Club, a gentleman’s club that is members only. However, a few times a year Hôtel de la Païva is open to the public. This tour is by appointment only and is presented in French. But on the day that I went, there were English speaking visitors who although may not have understood the guide, were still able to admire the interiors of this impressive home. For reservations click here (in French only).
Chapelle Expiatoire (Expatiory Chapel) is located at the former graveyard where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were buried in 1793, after they had been guillotined on Place de la Révolution, now known as Place de la Concorde. I love French history and so to me it was worth seeing. But if history is not your thing then you may not want to go out of your way for this. Chapelle Expiatoire- 29 Rue Pasquier, 75008 Paris
Crêpe making class in the Marais. So on the Airbnb app and website, there is also a link called Experiences. This gives travelers options of things to do (experiences) that are different from the usual touristy activities. For this occasion I chose the Crêpe making class in the Marais.There are classes offered in other neighborhoods as well. We met at a local person’s home, a woman originally from Venezuela named Gaby who has lived in Paris for 15 years. She loves cooking and enjoys showing others how to make sweet and savory crêpes, French macarons as well as Venezuelan arepas!
Wine tastings– whenever I’m in Paris I try to attend at least one wine tasting at a local marchand de vin (wine boutique) or it can be another venue. I usually go to the ones presented in French as I find that to be a fun way to not only learn about the wines but also to practice the language. But there are wine tastings throughout the city that are done in English.
La Dernière Goutte has free drop-in tastings on Saturday afternoons in English and French. They also have formal wine classes by reservation. 6 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006 Paris
L’Etiquette has free drop-in tastings every Saturday afternoon in English and French. 10 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 Paris
Wine tasting in Paris has tasting experiences by reservation and offers classes in English and French. 14 rue des boulangers 75005 Paris
Ô Chateau has a number of wine tastings in English and French. 68 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris
Dilettantes has seated tastings (in French) exclusively on boutique or grower Champagnes. 22, Rue de Savoie, 75006 Paris
Visiting the Louvre like a local…
The Louvre has a reputation of being overwhelming, maybe even daunting because most tourists have no idea just how massive the place is until they get there. They arrive early (along with the dozen of tour buses) to “see as much as they can”. While that sounds good in theory, all the walking, the pushing, and shoving through the crowds can leave one feeling drained. I find the Louvre to be most enjoyable and memorable if approached the way a local does…
1) Choose one or two exhibits to see and that’s it. On this trip I chose the Delacroix temporary exhibit and the Napoleon Apartments.
2) Consider going after hours when it is less crowded. The Louvre stays open late on Wednesday and Friday.
3) Use the Carousel entrance rather than the crowded pyramid entrance.
Et…voila !
Carrousel Entrance– Located at Rue de Rivoli & Rue de Rohan, just feet away from the Louvre-Rivoli Metro stop
Many local people come to see the traveling or temporary exhibits. This was the Eugène Delacroix organized by the Louvre and Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Napoleon III Apartments- this is not noted on the Museum map, but you’ll find this in the Richelieu wing first floor in Decorative Arts. While Napoleon himself did not live here, the apartments were named after him and were used for important guests such as heads of state and other VIP’s.
Auction houses in Paris such as Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Artcurial have some of the best art exhibits in Paris. They are usually free and open to the public before the lot goes for sale.
Durand-Dessert Collection at Christie’s Paris- 9 Avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris
Musée Jean-Jacques Henner (along with the Jacquemart-André, Carnavalet, the wine museum, Musée Cognacq-Jay, and the list continues) is one of Paris’ lesser known museums located in the 17th arrondissement. The mansion which is also the former atelier has a collection of paintings by the Alsatian painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Address- 43 Avenue de Villiers, 75017 Paris
I love Place Vendôme located not far from the Tuileries garden, and especially stopping by the Ritz Hotel to visit the interiors and have a cocktail at the Hemingway bar in the very back of the hotel.
The food scene in Paris is amazing with so many options to try! While fine dining has its place, my favorite food experiences are where the locals eat, in the little neighborhood cafés and bistros.
Pain Vin Fromage (Raclette, Fondue, Cheeses paired with wines)- 2-18 Rue Geoffroy l’Angevin, 75004 Paris
Bofinger (Alsatian cuisine)- 7 Rue de la Bastille, 75004 Paris
L’Abreuvoir (French)- 24 Rue du Dr Finlay, 75015 Paris
Marco Polo (Italian)- 1 Rue Saint-Sulpice, 75006 Paris, France
Breizh Café (Crêpe bretonne/ savory crêpe dishes) -1 Rue de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris
Besides cafés, the jardins (gardens) and the quais turn into living spaces where locals go to read, have a picnic lunch, take a nap, and of course meet with friends.
Jardin du Palais Royal
Place Dauphine
Quai des Célestins/ Quai de l’Hôtel de ville
Mixology and cocktail programs are the new rave in Paris and I always like to take a few moments to try one of their beautifully blended creations. During the summer, rooftop bars are especially fun as they offer some of the most stunning views. Expect to spend a pretty penny (or euro) though!
Georges V– 31 Avenue George V, 75008 Paris
The Peninsula – 9 Avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris
Le Meurice not only has a beautiful selection of wines by the glass, but also live music every night starting at 7pm. 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
