Day Trip to Cognac
During my stay in Bordeaux, I took some time out for a day trip to the Cognac region, a place that I’ve been wanting to visit since Cognac (besides Armagnac) is my favorite digestif. I learned about Borderies, a specific ¨terroir¨ or growth area in the Cognac region while at a Camus Cognac tasting in Atlanta several years ago. Over a period of time, I discovered that Borderies with its beautiful floral aromas and soft texture was indeed my preferred style of Cognac. For this trip, I was able to visit the home of Madame Giboin, a small family owned Cognac producer in the Borderies region. Madame Giboin and her husband have been making Cognac for decades using traditional, ¨old school¨ methods, even down to the paper-pen bookkeeping, which according to Madame is necessary paperwork for when the inspectors come!
A tour of the cellar (called chais in the Cognac & Bordeaux region) at Vignobles Giboin…
Now time for “une petite dégustation ” with Madame Giboin. On the table were Cognacs from several different vintages and Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine served as an apéritif that also comes from the region. I’ve had Pineau before. But hers was REALLY good and she was the sweetest host!
After my visit with Mrs. Giboin, I went for a stroll and picnic lunch in the park, Jardin de Cognac. La Mie Câline bakery located in the town center is a good place to get some picnic items such as baguettes, sandwiches and salads to go.
CAMUS Cognac is a brand that I first was introduced to at a Cognac tasting in Atlanta hosted by Tower Wines. It has since become one of my favorite brands, particularly the VSOP and XO Borderies. Conveniently, the CAMUS tasting room is located in the heart of Cognac’s town centre. Many of the selections are already available in the US. But it was fun just being in the tasting room and seeing the displays of older vintage bottles.
A highlight on this trip for sure was the Cognac cocktail bars. I learned that as delicious as Cognac is, the majority of Cognac production is not consumed by the French, but is exported to other countries such as the US. The French actually like Whiskey I hear! So….as a way to re-introduce Cognac to the local people, particulary the younger generation (because apparently Cognac was the drink of parents and grandparents; hence why the modern day people have moved onto the in-thing which is now Whiskey), mixologists are creating Cognac based craft cocktails. The ones I had at this Cognac bar were so good! I regret not having booked an overnight stay in town so that I could have had more 🙂
Charente River in Cognac and also where the Pineau de “Charente” apéritif comes from.
Alongside the Charente river is where you’ll find Hennesey, just next door to the Royal Castle of Cognac. Both offer tastings and tours. In the same area you’ll also find the houses of Remy Martin and Martell.
As markets are a way of life in France, naturally Cognac also has open air market days. Saturday mornings at St Jacques (place du Solençon) and Tuesday and Friday mornings at Champ de Foire are the popular ones around town.
