Baden-Baden
During my stay in Munich, I decided to take a side trip to the German spa town of Baden-Baden. Situated in the Black Forest in southwest Germany near the French border, Baden-Baden (baden means bath) is known for its spas and thermal baths because the town sits on natural hot springs. As the story goes, Baden-Baden first became famous after the visit of the Prussian Queen in the early 19th century. The queen went to the town for medical reasons, as the waters were known for its healing properties. Little by little, Baden-Baden became the first address for Europe’s high society, particularly in the summer. The town later picked up even more momentum in the mid 1830’s when gambling was illegal in France, and the French would cross the border to try their luck at the casino. Since then, the hot springs, luxury hotels, horse racing, and casino have attracted royals, the rich and celebrities – Barack Obama, Queen Victoria and Victoria Beckham included.
One thing you are sure to notice when in Baden-Baden is the French influence in style and design. Part of the reason as I understand it is because of its close proximity to France (only 36 miles from the city of Strasbourg in France’s Alsace region) and therefore wanting to cater to the many French visitors. The other reason which may be more relevant is that Frenchman Jacques Bénazet and son Edouard Bénazet, both sponsored and were hugely involved in overseeing the development projects in Baden-Baden – the Kurhaus casino, the expanded roads, the race course, etc. The interiors of the Kurhaus for example are modeled in part after the palace in Versailles. Notice the “frenchiness” in the architecture, lamp posts, and even the street signs and boutiques!
There’s a lot to see and do while in Baden Baden. These were my favorites…
Friedrichsbad
There are 2 main spa bath houses in Baden-Baden: Caracalla and Friedsrichsbad. I went to Friedrichsbad since Caracalla was closed for inspection work. Friedrichsbad, the Roman-Irish bath, is probably best suited for the adventurous spa-goer, as it is a traditional German spa (entirely nude) and is coed. However, there are ‘separate days’ where men and women go through the shower areas separately and the schedule is posted on the website. Caracalla is the more modern spa and is a good alternative for those who prefer to keep textiles on (except sauna areas where towels are okay)
Walking around and admiring the beautiful architecture
Meandering along Sophienstrasse and its side streets and through the old alleyways behind Friedrichsbad bathhouse make for the best views.
Strolling through Lichtentaler Allee
Wine Tasting
The Rebland region is the destination for wine tasting in Baden-Baden. For this I took the 216 bus from Augustplatz in the centre (direction BAD-Neuweier) and got off at WINZERGENOSSENSCHAFT. The bus drops you off directly in front of the winery. Here wine lovers can enjoy a complimentary tasting of Rotweine (red wines), Weissweine (white wines) as well as sparkling wines.
The Food
My favorite meal in Baden-Baden was at the restaurant of Gasthaus Auerhahn. It’s about 20 minutes away from the city centre, but can easily be reached by bus #204 (direction Geroldsau) to Geroldsauer Str. 160, 76534 Baden-Baden. There are several stops with a similar name so it’s best to show the bus driver the address to make sure.
Lowenbrau Biergarten is located in the heart of the center and has good food in a cozy atmosphere.
Le Bistro and Leo’s are also in the heart of the town center, stay open late and offer some good dishes on their menu.
Taking a pause…
Kaffeehaus in Baden-Baden -Love this place! It’s a great spot to unwind, have a good cup of coffee or tea, and sample tasty pastries and chocolates, all while people watching from the window or outdoor terrace seating. Located just steps from the Lowenbrau Bier Garten on Gernsbacher Str. 24.
Located inside the Brenners Park Hotel and Spa off Lichtentaler Allee, the Oleander Bar and Kaminhalle Lounge both offer an inviting and cozy place to relax, enjoy a drink and from 4:00pm listen to live piano music.
Altes Schloss (Old Castle)
This one is sort of tricky as the old ruins are not the easiest to find. Apparently there is a real address for this old castle. However, signs are not consistently posted and so it’s easy to get turned around. Your best bet is to keep going up and don’t be afraid to ask locals who are walking or horseback riding on the trail for directions. Google Maps/ GPS on your smartphone could be helpful too. The hike from the city center to the top is about 45 minutes to an hour. When you reach the top, you are in for a treat as the views of the city down below are beautiful.
Address: Alter Schlossweg 10 76530 Baden-Baden
Airbnb
This is a rental through Airbnb. The apartment is within a 15 minute walk of the city centre and is situated in a historic building, over 100 years old.
