Bonjour de Paris!
It has been said that there are people who are peaches, fuzzy on the outside with a hard pit in the center. Then there are those who are the coconuts- hard shell with a sweet interior. I first heard this saying on an episode of Samantha Brown’s Passport to Europe, where a Frenchman gave her some insight into the culture by describing the French people as coconuts, or crème brûlée would be even more appropriate to keep with the French theme.
I am here during the Christmas season in Paris, my first time ever traveling abroad in winter. It is cold, rainy, and starts to get dark as early as 4:30 in the afternoon. But in spite of that, there’s something warm and pleasing about the city. The cafes are filled with Parisians seated by the windows reading or in conversation while sipping on vin chaud (mulled wine) or chocolat chaud à l’ancienne (old-fashioned hot chocolate). Holiday shoppers flood the galleries (shopping arcades) searching for the perfect gifts.
So back to the person-fruit comparison, I have to say that I couldn’t find this statement to be more true about the Parisians. Perfect example. I was strolling through the Latin Quarter, which is a neighborhood on the left bank in the 5th arrondissement. During my promenade or stroll, I came across a wine shop with an intriguing old-fashioned looking facade. From the outside looking in, the interior seemed intimate, with deep rich colors, dark wood, and dim lighting, a stark contrast to the large commercial spaces in the States filled with bright fluorescent lights and vinyl flooring. I thought to myself, this could be something to look into for The Cellars Club wine blog.
I walked inside and said, “Bonjour monsieur” and the middle-aged shopkeeper replied, “Bonjour madame“. He went to put his head back down towards something he was writing. It was obvious I had walked in the middle of something. In the little French I have learned, I bravely went on to explain that while strolling through the neighborhood, I happened to come across his shop. Without even looking up he responds in his deep, stern voice, “Oui?” as if “yeah, and?….”. I added that I am a member of the Paris Wine MeetUp and also recently started a blog about wine bars and wine shops in Atlanta, Miami and Paris, and if he wouldn’t mind sharing a little about his boutique. He slowly removed his glasses and before I knew it, a friendly conversational exchange began to take place. He took time to show me around the shop, talked about the collection and even gladly welcomed my taking photos. He later asked if I would be interested in seeing the restaurant next door since that building was even more historic and I said, “Oui, bien sur!” He personally walked me over and introduced me to the staff, pointed out the murals and other interior details, then went on his way. Little did I know that the place he took me to next door also happened to be the very Le Polidor where Gil first met Hemingway in the Woody Allen film, “Midnight in Paris”. Quelle surprise !
This sort of geniality has been constant every time I come to Paris. Every place I go, whether it is at the bakery, the cafe, the market, pet shops, and even Zumba, the locals have always extended a welcome with politeness and friendly warm spirits.
No, it may not be the same southern hospitality you find in Tennessee or the Carolinas, you know the “Bless his little heart” type person who is quick to share family secrets and then wants to inquire about yours. The French tend to be reserved and very formal, well at least the Parisians, because like anywhere else, the experience is very different when in the countryside.
But I find that if you’re willing to just step out of your comfort zone and try a simple greeting such as “Bonjour monsieur” or “Bonjour madame”, that creates a sort of bridge between the cultures and really goes a long way.
In Zumba class for example, I found myself feeling somewhat uncomfortable, at first, especially since I didn’t know anybody. It was clear that everyone who attends are locals and come regularly. But guess what? I did exactly what I would have done at LA Fitness. I walked up to someone and asked if she has ever taken this class before….how is the instructor….do you go to other places for exercise, etc? And from there, we started chatting like old friends!
On another occasion, I went to a bistro on my way back to the apartment wanting something to nibble on.
I realized it was late but did the same thing- “Bonsoir monsieur” and asked if it’s possible to order something. He replied the kitchen was closed since it was after hours. But if okay with me, he could ask the chef to prepare a little something and in minutes, he prepared a very delicious Croque Monsieur. It’s amazing what a little reaching out can do!
By the way, Christmas in Paris is magical! There’s ice skating rinks, carousels, chestnuts roasting at the Marchés de Noël, mulled wine, raclette cheese and potatoes, chocolates and desserts, and the lights and decorations throughout the city are just spectacular!
